A Day in Ostuni, Puglia: The White City Walking Guide
Picture a town that appears to float above the olive groves, its whitewashed buildings rising like a white mirage on the horizon. This is Ostuni, where every twisted alleyway leads to another perfect photo opportunity and the simplest lunch may become one of your favourite Italian meals.
I visited Ostuni as a day trip from Monopoli and despite challenging weather – think horizontal rain – the city’s beauty was undiminished. As a former photography tutor was fond of saying, there’s no such thing as bad weather, just different types of light.
Here’s how to spend a day in Ostuni, with the sights, the food and the practical bits I picked up along the way.
Getting to Ostuni by Train
Ostuni is on the Bari – Brindisi train line and the station is 1.5 miles from the historic centre. I flagged down a passing taxi with two Italians to get to the Old Town, which cost us €5 each in 2024. I caught the bus back with the friendliest bus driver on the planet.
To catch the bus from Ostuni train station follow the signs to the car park, where you’ll find the bus stop.
Check Trenitalia’s website for current schedules and fares. I have also written a guide with top tips for travelling by train in Italy.
Introducing Ostuni
Ostuni perches on a hilltop, and its architecture is Greek in style, with houses stacked like sugar cubes against the slope. Every wall is coated in calce viva, a white lime wash that reflects the sun and keeps the buildings cool. The tradition dates to the 17th century, when it was used to brighten the streets during a plague outbreak.
Almost everything worth seeing is in the historic centre, a compact, walkable hilltop area. That’s where this guide stays.
What to Do in Ostuni
When I arrived, it was pelting down, so I ducked into La Sparacima for shelter (location here). I ate a plate of frito misto and drank local wine while the rain passed. It’s a good spot for lunch even without an excuse to hide from the weather.
From here, it’s a few steps to Piazza della Libertà, Ostuni’s living room. The square’s centrepiece is the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, an 18th-century column topped with a statue of the city’s patron saint.
Ostuni Cathedral (Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta) is an 8-minute walk away. Built in the 15th century, it sits at the highest point of the old town and its rose window is a masterpiece of Late Gothic architecture. Reportedly, the light through this window creates beautiful patterns on the floor around midday.
Walk through Arco Scoppa, an elegant 15th-century arch connecting the seminary to Palazzo Vescovile. This former palace now houses the Diocesan Museum (the entrance is next to the Duomo).
Beyond the arch is the medieval heart of Ostuni, where the best photo opportunities begin.
The Blue Door is one of Ostuni’s most photographed spots. You’ll find this bright blue door set against pristine white walls on Via Cattedrale.
Complete your circuit at Porta Nova, an old gateway with views across the Valle d’Itria. If the weather treats you better than it treated me, walk along the ancient city walls. The belvedere at Piazzetta Martiri delle Foibe has one of the best views in Ostuni.
It may sound lame but one of the best things to do in Ostuni is to wander the Old Town without an agenda. The streets are a maze, and they reveal quiet corners, worn stone steps and the occasional damp cat.
My Top Tips for Visiting Ostuni
Ready to spend a day in Ostuni?
My guide gives you a structure, but leave room to wander off it. Some of my best moments in Ostuni came from unplanned turns down quiet alleys.
For more help planning your Puglia trip, here’s my Otranto travel guide and my take on what to do in Polignano a Mare. Discover the best things to do in Monopoli, take an Alberobello day trip or spend a perfect day in Lecce, the South’s Baroque gem.
Buon viaggio!
By Bridget
Bridget Coleman is an award-winning travel blogger who is an incurable Italy addict and has travelled its length & breadth on multiple occasions. Find out more here.
To get in touch, email her at hello@flashpackingitaly.com