One Day in Lecce: Puglia’s Baroque Gem
You have to travel a long way south to reach Puglia’s most beautiful town, but it’s worth the journey.
Lecce, the so-called Florence of the South, is famous for its unique Baroque architectural style, led by Giuseppe Zimbalo, known as ‘Lo Zingarello’ (the Little Gypsy). This exuberant decorative style is a riot of frivolous facades adorned with cherubs, floral motifs and mythical creatures, unlike that seen elsewhere in Italy.
The city began life as a Messapian town and was conquered by the Romans in the 3rd century BC, who built landmarks such as the amphitheatre and theatre, parts of which remain today.
My guide will help you make the most of one day in Lecce, from its historical highlights to its must-see sites.
Is One Day in Lecce Enough?
Lecce is compact and one day is enough time to cover its highlights, especially if you follow a well-planned itinerary. That said, I recommend staying at least one night, if only to see the city’s Baroque architecture illuminated after sunset.
Travelling around Puglia by train, I used Lecce as a base for exploring Ostuni and Otranto in Salento, the southern part of the region.
My Suggested 1-Day Lecce Itinerary (Self-Guided Walking Tour)
I spent four nights in Lecce and structured this itinerary around the city’s must-see attractions. If you find it helpful, you can use it as a self-guided walking tour which starts at my recommended breakfast place near Porta San Biagio and finishes at Museo Faggiano.
For step-by-step directions and to send to your phone, click here or on the map below. The complete circuit is around two miles.
BREAKFAST
Start your day with a pasticciotto on the terrace of Pinti Pasticceria next to Porta San Biagio (location here), one of Leece’s Baroque gates. This breakfast treat, a perfect blend of crispy pastry and creamy custard filling, will set you up for the morning.
MORNING
Head to Piazza del Duomo to buy your ticket to visit Lecce’s most important churches, branded as LeccEcclesiae. You can buy this inside the Antico Seminario, and it gets you into the following sites:
Alternatively, you can buy this online.
It’s worth spending time in the Museo di Arte Sacra, if only for its small collection of papier-mâché sculptures, notably the extraordinary Judith With The Head of Oloferne. Papier-mâché, or cartapesta, lies at the heart of Lecce’s craftsmanship – most of Lecce’s churches have at least one cartapesta artwork– and you can visit one of the workshops in the old town for free.
Walk across the square to the Duomo. This was built in the 12th century and remodelled in the 17th century, resulting in a mix of Romanesque and Baroque styles. I was underwhelmed by it, but I loved its crypt with its exquisitely carved slender capitals.
From Piazza del Duomo, it’s seven minutes on foot to Porta Napoli, another of Lecce’s Baroque gates. This triumphal arch is the main entrance to the old town.
LUNCH
A day in Lecce isn’t complete without sampling some of the local cuisine. I chose to snack on a puccia, the delicious local bread, with local ham at Marenna on Piazzetta Chiesa Greca (location here). This region of Italy is also famous for its orecchiette pasta dishes, traditionally served with broccoli rabe (known as cima di rapa in Italian).
AFTERNOON
Begin your afternoon at Chiesa di Santa Croce, perhaps Lecce’s most beautiful church. It’s the epitome of the city’s Baroque architecture, its facade filled with frilly, and often whimsical, sculptures.
The late Renaissance interior is more restrained, with beautifully carved columns and a sensational wooden and gilt ceiling.
From Santa Croce, it’s a short walk to Piazza Sant’Oronzo, Lecce’s main square. Here, you’ll find the ancient Roman Amphitheatre, dating back to the 2nd century AD. At its centre is a column with a statue of Sant’Oronzo, Lecce’s patron saint.
Chiesa di Santa Chiara, the third Zimbalo church of the day, is nearby. This octagonal church is known for its cartapesta ceiling.
Continue along Via Federico D’Aragona to Chiesa di San Matteo, Lecce’s most architecturally adventurous church. Its distinctive facade combines convex and concave shapes, creating a dynamic, flowing appearance.
Inside, the church has an elliptical nave and elaborate altars with a profusion of playful putti.
Museo Faggiano is a five-minute walk from Chiesa di San Matteo and has a great back story. In 2001, Luciano Faggiano planned to open a trattoria in the building with his sons. However, renovations revealed archaeological layers going back to Lecce’s Roman, medieval and Renaissance periods.
The city’s culinary loss was its archaeological gain.
DINNER
Lecce’s culinary scene is legendary and I ate well there. Here are a few places I tried and can recommend:
Osteria 203 | Viale Francesco Lo Re, 39, 73100 Lecce
This super-friendly trattoria just outside the old city serves delicious and fairly-priced local fare. Try the muersi, a Salento speciality made with chickpeas, chicory, broccoli and fried bread cubes.
Il Salumaio La Massaia | Piazza D’Italia, 25, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy
I loved this mom-and-pop salumeria. The owners will create an inexpensive cheese and ham platter or whip up a lunchtime sandwich.
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira | Via Ludovico Maremonti, 33, 73100 Lecce
This was the most expensive meal of my Puglia trip, but was worth every Euro. If casual dining is more your thing, try Mamma Elvira Enoteca
Getting There
By Air: The closest airport is Brindisi (Aeroporto del Salento), 25 minutes by regional train from Lecce.
By Train: Lecce’s train station has regular connections to Bari (1 hour 40 minutes), Rome (5 hours 40 minutes) and Naples (5 hours 20 minutes). The train station is a short walk from Lecce’s historic centre.
For tips on riding the rails, take a look at my guide to Italy train travel.
By Car: If you’re exploring Puglia by car, Lecce is easy to reach from other cities in the region. There are parking facilities outside the historic centre.
Where to Stay
Lecce’s historic centre has boutique hotels and B&Bs in restored palazzi, close to the main sights. For a quieter, more local feel, consider staying in the modern neighbourhoods outside the old town, which provide more affordable lodging options while still being just a short walk from the attractions.
I enjoyed my stay at B&B Ai Due Santi, a bed and breakfast five minutes on foot from Porta San Biaggio. It was comfortable, the breakfast was awesome, and Maria Luisa, my host, could not have been more welcoming.
I also stayed one night at Rois Haus Suites, a set of rooms in a restored 17th-century palazzo in Lecce’s historic centre. The room was large and stylish, and the location near Chiesa di San Matteo was excellent.
And That’s a Wrap!
I hope that you create wonderful memories during your day in Lecce. If you have any questions, add them to the comments below.
For more Puglia travel inspiration, take a look at my guide to exploring Monopoli, spend a day in Polignano a Mare or take a day trip to Alberobello
Buon viaggio!
By Bridget
Bridget Coleman is an award-winning travel blogger who is an incurable Italy addict and has travelled its length & breadth on multiple occasions. Find out more here.
To get in touch, email her at hello@flashpackingitaly.com