One Day in Polignano a Mare: Postcards from the Edge

Legend has it that part of the Greek coast broke away and joined the Puglian shoreline to form Polignano a Mare. It’s a fantastical story, but a fitting one.

Perched precariously on limestone cliffs rising from the Adriatic, Polignano is like a painter’s most audacious creation. Every narrow street tells a story and every viewpoint offers a moment of Mediterranean magic.

You might know the town from the song Volare, or from photos of its whitewashed old town. Either way, Polignano makes an easy day trip from Bari or Monopoli, an excellent Puglian base in its own right. This is how I spent my day, and how I’d plan yours.

Planning your Day in Polignano a Mare

Polignano was the final stop on my 7-day Puglia itinerary. I took the short train ride from Monopoli in the morning and headed to Brindisi Airport for my flight back to London in the afternoon.

Although I enjoyed the town for a half-day, I recommend spending one day in Polignano a Mare if possible. This will give you time to have a leisurely lunch and maybe take a boat trip to explore its famous beaches and coves.

Trains run frequently from Bari (30 minutes) and Monopoli (5 minutes), so you don’t need a car. If you’re driving, parking gets tight in peak season, so arrive early or park outside the centre and walk in.

Polignano’s popularity means it fills up fast. Arrive early morning or late afternoon and you’ll beat most of the day trippers.

Meet the Maestro

Start your day with a local legend. Domenico Modugno, the singer-songwriter responsible for Volare (Nel blu, dipinto di blu), one of Italy’s most famous songs, is Polignano’s favourite son.

Sculptor Hermann Mejer created the bronze figure on the seafront. It rises three metres, arms outstretched, jacket caught by the sea breeze.

Something magical happens here; tourists and locals unconsciously hum the melody. From passing boats, I heard snatches of the song drift across the water, an unplanned tribute.

The bridge and the road beneath it

Ponte Borbonico di Lama Monachile was built by the Spanish in the 1830s and spans the gorge of Lama Monachile. This is one of the best vantage points in Polignano, with views down to Lama Monachile, the town’s famous cove, and across to the old town’s whitewashed buildings.

Most visitors point their cameras at the sea and move on. Few climb underneath. Out of curiosity, I did, and found a stretch of Roman road.

Polignano was a station along the Trajan Way, which connected Rome to Brindisi, and a boarding point for those heading east. Underneath Ponte Borbonico you’ll find what’s left of a lower Roman single-arch bridge that once connected Benevento and Brindisi.

The most photographed beach in Puglia

Lama Monachile, also known as Cala Porto, is undeniably striking: clear aquamarine waters lap a small pebble beach, hemmed in by towering limestone cliffs.

But it is also safe to say that it is best enjoyed from above. Cala Porto is small, uncomfortably pebbly and often crowded. But if you’re keen on swimming here, arrive early to find a place to lay down your towel.

Locals cliff jump from the rocks above. I watched. I didn’t join in.

Through the old gate

Porta Grande, also known as Arco Marchesale or Porta Vecchia, was built in 1530 as part of the medieval town’s defences. Walk through it and the wide sea views give way to the narrow lanes of the centro storico.

Greeks and Romans left their mark here first, then Byzantines, Normans and finally the Spanish, under whom the old town reached its height. Pass by the diminutive Church of Purgatory, with its skull-adorned facade, to reach Piazza Vittoria Emmanuele II, the sitting room of the old town.

Palazzo dell’Orologio, with its ornate clock, faces the square from the opposite side. Above the door is a small statue of San Vito, Polignano’s patron saint, and two bells.

It’s worth popping into Chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo on the right-hand side of Piazza Vittoria Emmanuele II (it’s free to visit). Thought to have been built on the remains of a pagan temple, it was consecrated in 1295 but completed in later periods.

Look for the 15th-century statue of San Vito and the nativity scene by Stefano da Putignano, now a national monument. I lingered longest at the painted wooden organ.

I preferred the area around Piazza San Benedetto. With its pretty side streets, fewer tourists and a more local feel, it was a great place to wander and get a sense of everyday life in Polignano.

Vico Chiangella carries a darker history. It’s named after locals who gathered here crying for sons taken by Turkish pirates. A bricked-up door still marks where a spy once let the raiders through to the rocks below.

Follow Via Tritone left to reach Lungomare, the coastal promenade, or head right onto Via Roma for shops, restaurants and souvenirs.

Poetry on the walls

The well-known Poetry Staircase left me cold. I preferred hunting for the handwritten verses that local artist Guido Il Flâneur has left across walls and doors through the centro storico.

The view everyone wants

For the shot you’ve probably seen on social media, head to Balconata sul Mare in the old town. It frames Lama Monachile, the cliffs and the centro storico in one line.

Along the sea

IThe one-kilometre Lungomare di Polignano a Mare is a good way to combine sea views with a walk, and it leads to Fondazione Museo Pino Pascali, the town’s main art museum.

Named after one of Italy’s major 20th-century artists, the museum is housed in a former abattoir overlooking the sea. It opens Wednesday to Sunday, 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 8pm, with an entry fee.

Pick up a pinsa

I would have loved a long lunch, but a flight to catch had other plans. Instead, I grabbed a pinsa from Frumé on Via Roma 32 (expect a queue).

This lighter, crispier cousin of Neapolitan pizza came fresh from the oven, topped simply. It was delicious straight off the tray.

One last thing

One day gives you a real feel for Polignano, though you’ll likely want more. My advice: arrive early and wear comfortable shoes.

If you have found this article helpful, here’s my take on the best things to do in Lecce and my Monopoli travel guide. For more Puglian adventures, visit the trulli of Alberobello, discover what to do in Ostuni or how to spend a day in Otranto.

Buon viaggio!

By Bridget

Bridget Coleman is an award-winning travel blogger who is an incurable Italy addict and has travelled its length & breadth on multiple occasions. Find out more here.

To get in touch, email her at hello@flashpackingitaly.com