Beginner’s Guide to Train Travel in Italy
I love riding the rails in Italy.
Driving & parking in Italian cities is not for the faint-hearted, and the country’s railway network is extensive, linking small towns and major cities. This guide covers the two national operators, high-speed and regional services, buying and validating tickets, and how to choose the right class for your journey.
Trains are the easiest way to get between Italian cities. A hire car makes more sense for the countryside or small hill towns off the rail network, but for city-to-city travel the train wins on time and cost.
Some articles on this website contain affiliate links. This means that I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase through these links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Read the full disclosure here.
Introducing Train Travel in Italy
Trenitalia and Italo are Italy’s two national rail companies.
In my experience, Trenitalia and Italo’s high-speed train services are evenly matched in terms of comfort. Italo is often less expensive (but not always). With both companies, it is usually cheaper to purchase your ticket in advance.
Trenitalia also runs an extensive regional train service. As fares are fixed, you won’t save money buying your ticket in advance.
I find it easiest to start my search on Omio, which is a user-friendly one-stop shop. You’ll pay a small booking fee, but you can go straight to Trenitalia or Italo instead if you prefer.
How Far Ahead Should You Book?
Italian high-speed fares work a bit like airline fares. The earlier you book, the cheaper the ticket. Tickets usually open three to six months before travel, though that window can shrink to thirty days after a timetable change in June or December.
For popular routes between big cities, aim to book four to six weeks ahead. If your dates are fixed, take the cheapest non-refundable fare. If your plans might shift, pay a bit more for one you can amend.
Regional trains don’t work this way. Fares are fixed no matter when you buy, so there’s no rush.
Trenitalia
Government-run Trenitalia is the country’s largest train company. When I started travelling in Italy in the 1990s, it was the only option.
It operates high-speed and regional services across Italy, connecting major towns, cities and rural areas. A Trenitalia train will take you to most places you want to go.
High-Speed Services
Trenitalia’s high-speed trains, known as Frecce (“Arrow”) or Alta Velocità (AV), travel at speeds up to 300 km/h (186 mph). They come in three flavours:
Frecciarossa – the fastest and most luxurious of Trenitalia’s high-speed trains, connecting major cities like Milan, Rome, Florence and Naples.
Frecciargento – slightly slower than Frecciarossa, connecting Genoa, Florence, Rome, Naples, Lecce and Reggio Calabria.
Frecciabianca – the slowest of the three, but still faster than regional trains. They operate on the Milan-Genoa-La Spezia-Pisa-Rome and Rome-Terni-Foligno-Pesaro- Rimini-Ravenna routes.
Intercity trains
Reaching a maximum speed of 200 km/h (125 mph), Intercity trains are the next in Trenitalia’s pecking order. They serve routes such as Rome-Naples-Sicily and Milan-Genoa-Savona-Ventimiglia (for Nice).
Regional Services
Trenitalia’s regional trains (Regionale) are the backbone of Italy’s local transportation, used by commuters and tourists alike. These trains are slower and stop more frequently.
They cover local routes, as well as connecting cities, including Florence-Pisa, Florence-Siena, Venice-Trieste and Rome-Civitavecchia. There are two types:
Regionale Veloce (RV) – These trains come in many shapes and sizes and are ideal for medium distances where high-speed trains might not be available, but you don’t want to spend hours getting to your destination.
Regionale (R) – For a retro Italian rail experience, jump on one of the slower Trenitalia regional services. They can stop at every stick and gatepost along the line. Bring a good book.
Travel Classes
The classes available will depend on which Trenitalia service you are travelling on.
Frecciarossa trains have four classes:
Standard – carriages are airy and spacious, and seats are arranged in a 2 + 2 configuration. It is more than adequate for most travellers.
Premium – the same seats as Standard Class, but you will receive a welcome drink and snack.
Business – more space, with seats in a 2+1 layout, and a food box. It also buys you lounge access where available.
Executive – large reclining seats, upgraded catering and access to Trenitalia lounges at major stations.
Frecciargento, Frecciabianca and Intercity trains have first and second-class cars. First class buys you more leg and elbow room, plus a welcome drink on the high-speed services.
Regional trains typically operate standard seating. However, some regional trains may have first- and second-class compartments, with first-class offering slightly more comfort and space.
Buying Tickets
You can buy Trenitalia tickets online on the Trenitalia website or app, at ticket machines or station ticket offices.
Don’t worry if your Italian is rusty; ticket office staff in tourist hubs deal with overseas visitors every day, and the machines have an English option.
Book high-speed trains in advance where you can (see above). Buy your regional ticket’s cheap Ordinaria fare whenever suits you. Regional tickets bought online are valid for a specific departure, though you can make unlimited changes via the app or website.
Seat Reservations
Seat reservations are mandatory on high-speed trains and are usually included in the ticket price. When you book your ticket, you will be assigned a seat.
There are no reservations on regional trains. Seating is first come, first served, so board early for a good seat at busy times.
Validating Tickets
You must validate your regional train ticket before your train departs. Failure to do so may result in a fine, and guards patrol the trains.
Let the conductor know if you haven’t been able to validate a paper ticket before boarding the train. He can do this for you in exchange for a few euros.
Paper ticket – If you go old school with a paper ticket, insert it into one of the green ticket validators at the train station. This stamps your ticket with the date, time and station. Once validated, you must complete your journey within four hours.
Online ticket – There is no need to validate a digital ticket. This is done automatically at the time of the train’s scheduled departure.
If you are buying regional tickets online, make sure that you have juice in your phone and an internet connection. If you are not confident about either, play it safe and buy a paper ticket.
High-speed train tickets (Frecciarossa, Frecciargento, and Frecciabianca) do not require validation.
Rail passes
I’ve rarely found Italian rail passes worth buying.
The Trenitalia Pass allows unlimited travel across its network over a specified number of days. Italia In Tour passes offer free travel on regional trains.
You can find out more here. As with any rail pass, crunch the numbers to check that they will be good value based on your itinerary.
Interrail and Eurail passes are accepted on Trenitalia trains. Reservation fees apply on Frecciarossa, Frecciargento & Frecciabianca and Intercity trains.
Italo
Italo is a private operator operating high-speed trains between major towns and cities. There are two train types – AGV & EVO – with similar classes & facilities, both reaching speeds of up to 300 km/h.
Using Milan and Bologna as hubs, much of Italo’s network is concentrated in Northern Italy, though its services do go south to Naples and Salerno via Rome.
Travel Classes
Italo offers three travel classes:
Smart – comfortable standard class with reclining leather seats and footrests.
Prima Business – more space with seats arranged in a 2+1 configuration and a welcome snack and drink. It also buys you fast-track boarding.
Club Executive – the most luxurious option with spacious armchairs, drinks and bakery products. Fast-track boarding and station lounge access are also included.
I have travelled in Smart and Prima Business Class, and have written this Italo Prima Business Class review if you want more detail.
Buying Tickets
Tickets are available online, through the app, at station ticket machines or at Italo ticket offices. Italo uses dynamic pricing, so fares rise as the travel date gets closer and seats fill up.
Seat Reservations
Seat reservations are mandatory on Italo and are included in your ticket price.
Travelling with Luggage
Regardless of travel class, there’s usually ample room for luggage on Italian trains and few limits. Store your bag on the overhead racks, on the big luggage racks at the end of the carriage or slide it between the seat backs (this is what I usually do).
Wifi and Charging on Board
Free Wi-Fi is available on every class of Trenitalia and Italo’s high-speed trains, though it can be patchy in tunnels and rural areas.
Power sockets are usually at every seat on high-speed services, but regional trains are hit and miss. Carry a portable charger if your ticket is on your phone.
Train Strikes in Italy
Strikes happen more often than you’d think, though they’re usually announced days in advance. They can affect regional and Intercity services, but a minimum service still runs by law during guaranteed hours, typically the morning and early evening peaks.
I’ve been caught out once, in Northern Italy, and simply waited for the next guaranteed-service train an hour later. Check for strikes on the Trenitalia or Italo website before you travel, and build in some slack if you have a connection to catch.
My Top Tips for Travelling by Train in Italy
1. Always validate your ticket before boarding a regional train
2. Arrive at the station at least twenty minutes before departure, more at big stations like Rome Termini or Bologna Centrale, which can be busy and confusing.
3. Check schedules online before you set off, since these can change. I find it helpful to note the train’s number, as the final destination is not always obvious.
4. Download the Trenitalia and Italo apps. They’re invaluable for planning, buying tickets and getting real-time updates.
5. Learn Italian place names. Good luck typing “Venice” into Trenitalia’s search box. Get familiar with Venezia (Venice), Roma (Rome), Firenze (Florence), Milano (Milan), Napoli (Naples) and Torino (Turin).
6. Know your station. Major cities often have more than one, such as Rome Termini and Rome Tiburtina, so make sure you’ve got the right one.
7. Pick up a few key words: partenze (departures), binario (platform), biglietto (ticket) and ritardo (late), plus your numbers. Many signs are in English too, and announcements on high-speed trains are repeated in English.
8. Watch your belongings, especially in busy stations and on crowded trains. Petty theft can be an issue.
9. Never accept help buying a ticket from the self-service machine unless it’s from a member of station staff.
And that’s a wrap!
Travelling by train is a wonderful way to explore Italy. Whether you choose the high-speed comfort of Italo and Trenitalia’s Frecce trains or the local character of regional services, I hope this article helps you to navigate the rail system.
Buon viaggio!
By Bridget
Bridget Coleman is an award-winning travel blogger who is an incurable Italy addict and has travelled its length & breadth on multiple occasions. Find out more here.
To get in touch, email her at hello@flashpackingitaly.com