Visiting Tuscania, Italy: An Etruscan Treasure

Perched atop a promontory of tuff rock, Tuscania resounds with the echoes of Etruscan and medieval history.

Formally known as Toscanella, this sleepy town set amongst the rolling hills of central Italy is well and truly off-the-beaten-track. And it is all the better for this.

Discover why you should add this Etruscan jewel to your travel bucket list, and all you need to know about visiting Tuscania.

old church and ruined building on hilltops in tuscania italy

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Where is Tuscania in Italy?

Tuscania is in the Province of Viterbo in Lazio in central Italy, about 60 miles north of Rome.

map of the position of tuscania in italy
Tuscania in Italy. Map data @ 2021 Google.

Tuscania and Tuscany are not the same. Tuscania is a town in the Lazio region; Tuscany is a region in central Italy.

A Short History of Tuscania

Tuscania was founded by the Etruscans in the 7th Century BC and reached its peak of wealth and culture in the 4th Century BC. Following its conquest by the Romans, it became a major stop on the Via Clodia, a trade route linking the imperial capital with the agricultural hubs of northern Lazio and southern Tuscany.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Tuscania changed hands several times.  

Medieval times were not kind to the town. Earthquakes and plague, notably the Black Death of 1349, killed around two-thirds of its population.

Tuscania was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1861, and in 1971 an earthquake destroyed many of its historic buildings. Most of these buildings have been either restored or replaced.

What to See in Tuscania

Much of the pleasure of visiting Tuscania comes from strolling around its 16th-century town centre. But you won’t feel short-changed when it comes to sights as such.

Allow at least two hours to visit Tuscania. If you want to spend time visiting the Etruscan tombs and sarcophagi, spend at least half a day there.

There’s a fountain that has been flowing since Etruscan times, two show-stopping churches, lookouts over the Marta River valley and Etruscan tombs-a-plenty.

woman walking along narrow street with medieval ochre and pink houses
two people walking along narrow street with medieval ochre houses

The lovely Seven Spouts (Sette Cannelle) fountain dates from 1309. However, it was built using many of the original stones from an earlier Etruscan fountain.

trough with ancient stone fountain and church in background
ancient stone fountain

Close to the Sette Cannelle fountain is Parco Torre di Lavello. From this grassy promenade at the foot of Torre Lavello, there are magnificent views of the ancient basilicas of San Pietro and Santa Maria Maggiore, perched on solitary hills.

old arched gateway leading into a small park
Parco Torre di Lavello

Crowning Colle di San Pietro (St Peter’s Hill) to the southeast of the town is the majestic Basilica di San Pietro. Standing on the site of the Etruscan acropolis, the church was founded at the beginning of the 8th Century.

Echoes of Etruscan civilisation can be found outside the church and scattered across the hillside.

The Etruscans buried their dead in tombs carved into the rock, which contained elaborately carved sarcophagi. These cave-like tombs and sarcophagi litter the landscape around St. Peter’s Hill.

Tuscania’s second great church, Santa Maria Maggiore, is a short walk downhill and was consecrated in 1206.

old stone church on a hillside in tuscania italy

Most sights in Tuscania are closed on Mondays

How to Get to Tuscania

Many people visit Tuscania on a day trip from Civitavecchia or Rome.

The easiest way to get there is by car. Whilst it is possible to reach Tuscania on public transport this will take a considerable length of time.

I visited Tuscania and Civita di Bagnoregio on a shore excursion fromCivitavecchia, which also included the wonderful ‘dying town’ of Civita di Bagnoregio.

people walking along a footbridge to the old town of civita di bagnoregio on the top of a hill

Getting to Tuscania by car

The quickest routes to Tuscania are via the E80 (tolls apply) or the SR2. From Rome, the journey time is around 1 hour 45 minutes.

Visiting Tuscania without a car

To visit Tuscania on public transport, take a train to Civitavecchia, Tarquinia or Viterbo and then catch a bus to complete your journey. You are looking at a one-way journey time of at least 3 ½ hours.

Check train times and COTRAL bus schedules here.

old stone town walls and church on a hill

Where to Stay in Tuscania

If you want to explore Tuscania at a more relaxed pace and enjoy the evening atmosphere in the town, book a room for the night.

Here are a few places that have been highly rated by other travellers.

Agriturismo Sensi

For a true taste of Tuscania, stay at this agriturismo, located a short distance from the town centre.


A Casa di Amici

This renovated farmhouse close to Parco Torre di Lavello offers large rooms and an outdoor swimming pool


Il Riuscello

A centrally-located holiday rental that has garnered near-perfect guest reviews


This post was originally published on The Flashpacker