A Walk in the Oltrarno: One Day Beyond Florence’s Postcards
Did you know you can get off the beaten path in Florence simply by crossing the Arno River?
The Oltrarno district has been home to Florence’s artisan community for centuries. Its streets are lined with traditional botteghe (workshops), independent boutiques and the coolest bars and restaurants in town.
It’s my favourite neighbourhood and there’s plenty to do here in one day. See the best bits by taking my self-guided walk in the Oltrarno.
A Self-Guided Walk in the Oltrarno
Before You Begin
My top tips
The Route
Here’s my map to help you on your way. For step-by-step directions and to send to your phone, click here or on the map itself.
Your day in the Oltrarno begins by crossing Ponte alla Carraia from the north bank of the Arno. This is one of the must-see bridges in Florence, offering hard-to-beat views of both sides of the river.
Brancacci Chapel
I try to visit this small chapel each time I am in Florence. It is wallpapered by some of the most important frescoes of the early Renaissance, painted primarily by Masaccio and Masolino between 1425 and 1427.
These masterpieces revolutionised painting with their naturalistic style, perspective and emotional depth, influencing generations of artists including Michelangelo. The standout is the Expulsion from the Garden of Eden; just look at Adam and Eve’s anguish.
Booking is essential as visitor numbers are strictly limited.
Wine Window (Buchetta del Vino) at Babae
Make your way along Borgo San Frediano, one of the Oltrarno’s main drags, to a unique Florentine sight.
The city’s buchette del vino, or “wine windows,” date from the 17th century when wealthy familie ssold wine directly from their palaces. During the plague, they allowed contactless sales, an early form of social distancing.
The buchetta at Babae is one of many dotted across the city. Come back here at the end of your walk for a glass of Tuscan wine.
Fotoautomatico Booth
Capture your Florentine holiday memories in this vintage photo booth. Unlike digital alternatives, these chemical-process booths produce unedited, analogue black-and-white images. And let’s face it; who doesn’t look better in monochrome?
Salvatore Romano Foundation
Housed in a former Refectory of Santo Spirito, this small museum displays the private collection of antiquities dealer Salvatore Romano.
Most exhibits are sculptures and stone objects, including fragments from dismantled monumental complexes. Don’t miss the 14th-century frescos of the Crucifixion and Last Supper on the refectory’s wall, painted by Andrea di Cione, known as Orcagna.
Santo Spirito
Santo Spirito is one of my favourite Florence churches, its perfectly proportioned interior a lesson in Renaissance harmony and mathematical precision. Inside, you’ll find works by Filippino Lippi, and a wooden crucifix that is one of the early sculptures by Michelangelo in Florence
Piazza Santo Spirito is the Oltrarno’s beating heart. A small market often sets up here in the morning, and the square fills with locals and visitors in the evening.
Palazzo di Bianca Cappello
From Piazza Santo Spirito, stroll along Via Maggio to take a look at Palazzo di Bianca Cappello. Now a luxury hotel, this former 16th-century palace has elaborate sgraffito decorations on its facade.
It was home to Bianca Cappello, whose life story is worthy of a Renaissance soap opera. She eloped with a Florentine banker, became mistress to Francesco I de’ Medici and eventually his wife after his first wife’s death.
Via Toscanella and Street Art
This narrow medieval street shows off Oltrarno’s creative side. Look for street art by Clet Abraham, known for his playful takes on road signs, and other local artists.
Santa Felicita
Florence’s second-oldest church is famous for the Barbadori -Capponi Chapel, designed by Brunelleschi and home to Pontormo’s masterpiece Deposition from the Cross. Pop a Euro coin in the slot to best appreciate the intense colours and elongated figures of this Mannerist painting.
The church has an unusual elevated passage across its façade. This is part of the Vasari Corridor, a walkway that allowed the Medici to travel between the Pitti Palace and Uffizi without mixing with the hoi polloi.
Pitti Palace
Filippo Brunelleschi designed this huge Renaissance palace, home to the Medici grand dukes and later Napoleon. It now houses several of Florence’s best museums, including the Palatine Gallery with works by Raphael, Titian and Rubens. Book ahead if you can.
Behind the palace, the Boboli Gardens are a fine example of Italian formal garden design. If you have time, walk through the terraces, fountains and grottos before heading uphill.
Piazzale Michelangelo
The climb to this vast panoramic terrace rewards you with one of the best views of Florence’s historic centre.
Built in 1869 during Florence’s brief spell as Italy’s capital, it has a bronze copy of Michelangelo’s David at its centre, along with copies of four allegorical sculptures from the the Medici Chapels. Time your visit for late afternoon when the sun bathes the city in golden light.
Rose Garden
But I prefer the tranquil Rose Garden, just below Piazzale Michelangelo. Hundreds of rose varieties bloom here between May and June alongside sculptures by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.
Rest on a bench and take in the view. There’s also a small, inexpensive coffee shop.
San Miniato al Monte
Your day ends at this Romanesque church perched even higher than Piazzale Michelangelo. Dating from the 11th century, San Miniato is one of Florence’s finest examples of medieval architecture with a distinctive green and white marble facade.
Inside, the art-filled sacristy and ceiling of glazed terracotta panels are well worth a look, and you are likely to have the place pretty much to yourself.
Useful Practical Information
Refreshment stops: For lunch, head to the trattorias around Piazza Santo Spirito. I liked Trattoria Casalinga and Osteria del Tegolaio. For coffee, there are several options near Santa Felicita.
Transport options: This is a walking tour, but buses 12 and 13 run up to Piazzale Michelangelo if the climb feels like too much. See my guide to Piazzale Michelangelo for more information.
By Bridget
Bridget Coleman is an award-winning travel blogger who is an incurable Italy addict and has travelled its length & breadth on multiple occasions. Find out more here.
To get in touch, email her at hello@flashpackingitaly.com